Local Chinese Food: Day 1

One girlfriend rightly called Hong Kong “expat lite”. On the one hand, we’re blessed to be able to get most craved foods from our respective countries. On the other hand, we miss out on local cuisine because it’s so easy to keep eating our expat stuff.

I’m embarrassed to admit that, after living here for over ten years, I have little experience walking into a local Cantonese restaurant to order food. That changes now. With the help of my lovely colleague, Nancy, I plan to eat at least one meal from a local shop every day for the next 10 days.

Day 1: Duck and Choi Sum

For HK$95 (around US$12), you can get half a barbecue duck and some green leafy vegetables – enough for at least two meals.

Getting the duck was a bit of an adventure. When the restaurant owner did not understand my request for duck, I made a “quack” sound and used my hand to form duck bills. He suppressed his laughter. Lovely man. Very kind.

I then remembered that each language has unique animal sounds. My colleague, Nancy, informed me that Cantonese ducks say “nyut”.

I learned that the name of this particular green, leafy vegetable is choi sum. I suspect choi sum is a relative of spinach, but it doesn’t get mushy like spinach when blanched. It is usually cooked in oyster sauce and garlic.

Should you want to order barbecue duck and choi sum from a local restaurant, show them the characters 燒烤鴨 (BBQ duck)  菜心 (choi sum).

Nancy has given me the Chinese characters for tomorrow’s meal…

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Stories Told to Expats

From: http://bit.ly/KeqXe8

 

The following post was cross-posted at Expat Educator. The stories you hear overseas are amazing…

A good portion of expats, myself included, live in a bubble. We work with expats, we socialize with expats – not because we want to avoid the local populations, but because life is just…life. We come home from work, read the news, whinge a bit, and make plans for the weekend.

That said, I’m honored by the many people of Chinese heritage who have been willing to share their family stories with me. I’d like to pass on two stories (names are changed) and dedicate this post to those who have shared. Part of the richness of the expat educator experience is the opportunity to allow stories to change your worldview.

“I’m Planning a Reunion”

Mr. Li and I sat at a local pub. He had been kind enough to deliver me some curriculum documents for analysis. I figured I’d buy him a beer for traveling to a distant part of town. He insisted on Coke.

“It’s no trouble,” he said. After meeting with me, he was heading to an area of town where he grew up. “We’re having a neighborhood reunion,” he said.

“A reunion?” I asked. I knew the area comprised a large housing estate – dozens of buildings, each towering at least 40 stories high.

“I was very close to my neighbors,” he said. “We all came from families that were poor.”

I wasn’t sure how to respond to that. “But you’re very successful,” I said. “Your mom must be proud.”

Mr. Li looked down at the table, shook his head, and held up his palm to say, “No, no.”

I was quiet for a moment. “Tell me about your friends,” I said.

“We all came from families who escaped China. The government took all of our money. My aunts and uncles stayed in China. My father went to a camp. Mom took us over the border to Hong Kong.” He paused. “I was too young to remember.”

Silence.

“My friends and I worked very hard,” he continued. “We became close. I am meeting with my friends to see the old neighborhood. To have a reunion.”

“Where are your friends now?” I asked.

“They work in Hong Kong. We take care of our parents. They took care of us.”

“Your mom must have some incredible stories to tell,” I said. “Did she share how she escaped?”

“She does not talk about China. She will never visit mainland China,” he stated.

As I walk the crowded streets of Hong Kong, I often find myself wondering How many of the people passing me are children or grandchildren of people who escaped the Cultural Revolution?

“I Can Speak to Your Class”

In a parent newsletter, I asked for a speaker I thought I’d never find. My students had finished studying the Civil War. One of our essential questions was this: If a state does not agree with the laws of a country, does the state have a right to form its own country? 

That question is applicable in an Asian context. I wondered if any parents could speak to the question of Taiwan and Mainland China from an unbiased perspective.

I received an email. A mother, Cherry, said, “I was born and raised in China. I moved to America. I have an American passport, and my best friends are Taiwanese. I’d love to talk to the class.”

She developed a Power Point, defining terms and telling the story from both sides.

“Can I take you to coffee to thank you?” I asked. Over coffee, my questions began, “Tell me what it was like growing up in China” and continued with “Why move to America?”

“I was in Tianamen Square the day of the massacre,” she said.

Stunned silence.

“I was there in the afternoon. I went back to my dorm that evening because I was tired. I woke up the next day. People started arriving. Some of my friends had pictures of what had happened. Students wanted to tell the story. They made a floor of ice in one of the buildings to preserve the bodies. They took pictures of bodies. Their cameras were taken. We couldn’t tell the story.”

Cherry went on to say that she will always love China. It is the country of her heritage – and her family. As she was in America, she met Mandarin-speakers from Taiwan who told her the story of Taiwan from their perspective.

It’s All About Perspective

This blog was inspired by a fellow blogger, who wrote about a lunchroom conversation revolving around the causes of poverty. I come from a cultural background that believes people can “pull themselves up by their bootstraps” and succeed if they choose. Those ideals are personified in the two stories I have recounted.

But I wonder about the families who didn’t escape. Perhaps some of Mr. Li’s and Cherry’s family members have applied for moves and waited the decades required to move to Special Economic Zones. Maybe they live in rural villages, impoverished.

I’ve worked with NGOs (Non-Governmental Organizations) in China. While doing so, I have always followed the rules. The rules include not ever discussing religion, politics, or “the three T’s” (Taiwan, Tianamen, or Tibet). Because I abide by those rules, I am allowed to come into China to help with social work projects. I meet more people whose stories I’ll never know.

I teach kids to write because I want them to tell those stories. The last day Cherry’s son was in my class, I looked him in the eyes and said, “Promise me that, someday, you’ll write your mom’s story.”

I wonder…How many millions of stories go untold. And how many of us are honored enough to hear but a few?

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Semi-Annual Clothing Purge

At some point, expat life just feels like….life.

This week, I’ve been pondering my closet. Like the closets of many women worldwide, clothes are squished up in a way that resembles a Tokyo subway at rush hour. When traveling and moving houses, clothes become a burden – an expensive burden that can add to luggage and shipping costs.

It’s time for the semi-annual clothing purge.

My process begins with hangars and drawers looking something like this:

honestinfomercialreviews.com/home/storage/huggable_hangers/

I pretend Tim Gunn is standing in my room. Me and Tim, I say to myself as I look in the mirror and cross my fingers to indicate Tim and I are BFFs.

I picture Tim looking into my closet, resting his chin between his thumb and forefinger while pursing his lips, lowering his head, throwing on the sympathetic eyes, and slowly shaking his head.

A large “give away” bin rests by the mirror.

I begin with bridesmaid dresses dating back to the early 90s. I love the memories. The fit… Here is what I’m NOT feeling like:

http://quixotic-other.blogspot.com/2009/08/closet-of-clothes-and-nothing-to-wear.html

I see the pants I wore on my first date with Road Warrior. They don’t fit. Wearing them would be an egregious affront to everything visual. But I want to keep them. Even if they had a big chocolate stain on the butt, I’d want to keep the pants. I look up at Tim. He shakes his head. Bin.

Repeat heart-wrenching experience with 15-20 other items. I must face the reality that clothing now fits differently. Pieces that once made me feel glamorous… Maybe if I lost a little weight…, I think. If I took off five pounds per week for the next year…? I look up at Tim. He shakes his head. Bin.

Well-tailored outfits are a bit tight in the shoulders. How many push-ups would it take to get back into them?

As the bin pile grows, I’m horrified by the money I wasted buying knit tops that never truly fit correctly. Worse, I bought the ill-fitting things in multiple colors.

Then there are the items from other countries. Will I wear the salwar suit again? What if I go back to India? Is the cheongsam really a good look for me? I keep my favorite salwar suit. The rest: bin. If I’m invited to another Chinese wedding, I’ll have a tailor make me a more figure-flattering dress in Chinese fabric and patterns. Fashion fusion.

Then I realize that, as I age, my style changes – no matter where I live. I get rid of the following:

  • all floral prints except for one dress to wear to beach weddings
  • all knit tops that bunch under the arms, show my belly, or inhibit circulation
  • tired athletic wear
  • any “unmentionables” that have been conquered by [cough] gravity.

Some things I can’t eliminate. Hong Kong is rife with fancy dress parties. I have one sari, one Marilyn Monroe dress (the white one she holds down over a breeze), a country-western outfit, a Rastifarian t-shirt and wig, a 1920s flapper dress replica, and a 1970s disco outfit. Those outfits cover the most popular theme parties – but they can live in a box.

In the end, I eliminate 36 items and box up 12. Exhaustion hits.

The clothing purge is something girls do no matter where in the world they live. What are some “normal life” things you do overseas?

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The Best Ever Staycation

Today is the last day of Spring Break…two weeks and three weekends of nothing that we have to do. No school lunch preparation, no classes, no lessons, no get up and go. Usually, we would have booked into a  resort in Thailand or tried to furiously jam in a few Asian locales. This time, we tried the staycation approach and spent two glorious weeks in my favorite city in the world…our “now”home…Hong Kong. No travel required!

My brilliant friend, Robyn, had the foresight to put together an Edit Grid for the school moms. A common access online spreadsheet where we could log in what we’d like to do and those who would like to join would simply “sign up” and show up. The result was a wonderful string of outings for families (and a few “mom’s only” evenings) that made this spring break the most memorable two weeks yet. Maybe some of these ideas will help you plan your own staycation!

Here’s what we did:

*Family meetup at the Peak with snacks at Saffron Bakery followed by scooters around the Lugard Road

*Early day at Ocean Park with water rides, kids play area and Amazing Asian Animals encounter

*Dame Edna Everage’s narration of Peter and the Wolf with the Hong Kong City Chamber Orchestra with family lunch at Grappa’s Cellar

*Bowling and swimming with the kids at the HK Football Club

*Ladies night dinner at Kushiyaki Beco followed by dancing at Tonic and more dancing at Dusk ’til Dawn

*Family outing at Cyberport to see the Lorax followed by yum cha.

*Girls movie night to see Wrath of the Titans (shameful, but necessary)

*Outing at the HK Botanical Gardens and HK Park

*Big Easter BBQ at our place with cookie decorating, egg hunt and impromptu guitar performance by our webmaster

*Loads of small playdates

*Pre-opening cocktails and apps at Lupa!

I’m feeling relaxed, sated, tanned and ready for the school session to recommence in the morning. I haven’t packed or unpacked more than a few swimsuits and water bottles,  haven’t slugged the kids through one airport and haven’t said “please don’t kick the seat in front of you” once. Yeah, I think I’ll try this staycation thing again.

How did you spend your spring break?

 

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The Five Best Things I’ve Eaten Lately

I’m a shameless eater. At least half of the pictures on my iphone are of food, restaurant menus or recipes. Life has been a bit stressful lately, so, I’ve been on a binge…forgoing my usual style of cooking three meals a day (plus a snack or two) and eating my way around HK. With the help of an always hungry husband and a good gang of girlfriends who have lots of recommendations and the willingness to accompany me on my binge, here are the five best things I’ve eaten lately:
1. The Cheese Plate at The Principal on Star Street in Wan Chai. Let me elaborate. Upon being seated by the lovely and gracious staff at the Principal, you notice that in the center of the restaurant is an ISLAND filled with glass domes covering the most luscious selection of cheeses I’ve ever seen(my own personal Fantasy Island). At $190HKD for a small cheese plate which included 4 selections beautifully presented on a board with equally yummy condiments (fresh honeycomb!), it’s worth a pop in with the girls just for the cheese (the wine is pretty great too).
2. The Carnitas Tacos at Taco Chaca in Sai Ying Pun. Wow. Soft corn tortilla, earthy, savory, slightly spicy shredded pork filling with a gentle little squeeze of lemon on top equals happy me. $40HKD gets you two of these delicious little tacos and for another $30 you may even want to try one of the slightly off beat tacos of the day. My husband and I shared the Bulgogi taco and were impressed. It’s just a tiny, order at the counter sort of joint serving up meals on thin paper plates, which made me even more smitten.
3. The Chicken Oyster Yakitori with Sea Salt and Lemon at Yardbird.  The genius and personable Matt Abergel has put together some amazing munchies at his slick, cool and fun place in Sheung Wan (including the spicy, crunchy, surprising Korean Fried Cauliflower, and the smooth and satisfying meatball), but for me, the “oyster” of the chicken, a succulent little piece of meat near the thigh, beat all. The cute and engaging staff doesn’t hurt either.
4. The Salmon Belly at Kushiyaki Beco in Sheung Wan. Supple, salty and sweet with no need of dippin’ sauce, this dish caught me off guard as I had gone to Beco expecting to be solely blown away by their beef yakitori. Don’t get me wrong, the Hanger Steak came at a very close second (this with the most heavenly dipping sauce which nearly caused a chopstick fight amongst our group), but, the salmon was the star of the meal.
5. My friend Jean’s sun-dried tomato and goat cheese dip.  There are many reasons why I have a slight girl crush on Jean…some because of her killer haircut, and lots for her morish party apps (I’ve eaten too many of her sausage and cream chesse puffs to count). She blends up some sun-dried tomatoes and other secret ingredients then pours them over two logs of goat cheese. Served up with wheaty, buttery cracker rounds, and lots of wine, this dish is always completely gone by the time the mains are served. This Sunday was no exception.
Since I am still feeling more than slightly stressed, I think I’ll extend the binge for another couple of weeks.  Any recommendations?
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Hong Kong History: Kai Tak Airport

Talk to anyone who flew into Hong Kong before July 6, 1998, and you’ll hear all sorts of great stories. I could recount the tales, but the pictures do a better job than words:

Pilots flew in from the North. Once they reached the checkerboard on the side of the hill, they made a hard right.

Passengers say that they could see into the windows of Kowloon residents.

A more dodgy landing...

A rather extreme landing:

The Kai Tak Landing area

Alas, should you come to Hong Kong now, the landing is easy. Here is the newer airport:

The entire airport is built on reclamated land.

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Surviving Daylight Savings Time

From http://www.flickr.com/photos/ev0luti0nary/5920417073/

Sometimes you have to stop, chuckle, and reflect on a headline.

Today I read the Times Healthland headline “5 Ways to Survive Daylight Saving Time.” Survive? Umm….that’s a one hour time difference.

Apparently Alexandra Sifferlin writes for an audience that has never traveled East or West on an airplane. For certain, the audience has not traveled from North America to Asia.

Traveling one hour forward has a jet lag effect equal to staying up for Letterman’s Top Ten list when you know you should be heading to bed. Jet lag of more than five hours has an effect equal to that of being run over by a truck.

Sifferlin cites a study that indicates ”traffic accidents bump up slightly on the Monday following the spring shift to Daylight Saving Time.” If this is true, Asia expats should refrain from operating motor vehicles, engaging in financial trades, or supervising children for at least a week after returning from a trip.

Yet those of us in Hong Kong can rest peacefully tonight, knowing that the hazards of Daylight Savings Time will not affect us…assuming we don’t spend an extra hour out drinking.

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Holi and International Women’s Day

The detox is long gone. I made it through. I felt great.

It also feels great to be in the company of frijoles con queso, corn tortillas, and unnamed Mexican beverages.

I have reason to celebrate. It’s Holi and International Women’s Day.

From http://www.flickr.com/photos/85677269@N00/5539204082/

Road Warrior’s first experience with Holi was classic. He leaves the Mumbai hotel, suited up for a hard-core meeting that would grace the world with another insurance company. As he walks out the hotel door, a teenage boy hurls a powdery paint ball at him.

He turns around. Former rugby instincts emerge. As Road Warrior’s body lunges toward the adolescent, the doorman stops him. It’s Holi, sir.

I first experienced Holi in Gurgaon, the “millenial city” south of Delhi. I good friend invited us over to throw splashes of color over one another. White t-shirts worked best. By the end of the day, we had mixed powder and water on clothing – oddly resembling Rastafarian tie-dye. Colored paste was also in my hair, my ears, under my fingernails, and up my nose.

I thought I wasn’t vain. Revelation to self.

From http://www.fotopedia.com/items/flickr-3546067717

I’ve never celebrated International Women’s Day.

I continue to struggle with what “woman-hood” means in various cultures. When I left the US, I ascribed to the Ainsley Hayes definition of feminism. Since then, I’ve witnessed the following:

  • A woman being chastised for speaking in public to a man who is not her husband.
  • Women being chastised for the grades their children received.
  • Whole cities of women who do not have enough money to put diapers on children. Children go without pants until they are potty-trained.
  • Highly-educated women who leave their own children to take care of expat children – because overseas domestic helpers make more money than teachers or Emergency Room nurses in their home countries.
  • Women forced into arranged marriages.
  • Women, nine months pregnant, scaling buildings as construction workers. They do manual labor alongside their husband for long hours, earning a few dollars per day.

Others could tell stories far worse than those. What surprises me most is that those situations represent normality. When I ask how they endure, most respond with That’s just the way it is. Is that the truth for them or is it what they share with those from the outside?

So two thoughts converge today: A celebration of color that happens in one of the countries where women have the fewest choices.

I grew up in a culture that believes both men and women can “pull themselves up by their bootstraps” to make a better life. Perhaps that is true in first-world countries. I now believe that women in many countries should have a day to self-advocate.

It’s nice that a day for women coincides with a holiday full of color.

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Posted in Life in General | 2 Comments

Detoxing in Hong Kong

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lauramtportugal/5476296578/

When friends in Asia discuss detoxing, they usually refer to resorts in Thailand where the air is clear and the food is tropical. Since Hong Kong tends to be a re-tox destination, Thais wrote about activities that do not involve long hours at a restaurant or bar. Is it possible to eat healthy in Hong Kong?

I recently embarked on a personal challenge to complete a detox program that is rather popular in America. It lasts only 21 days but requires the exclusion of alcohol, caffeine, sugar, dairy, eggs, gluten, and a couple fruits and vegetables. It also encourages you to eat organic. Can it be done in Hong Kong?

Shopping
To begin the detox, I needed to find foods I had never seen in local supermarkets. “One stop shopping” does not exist in Hong Kong, so I figured I was doomed to comb through message threads and explore at least five boutique grocery stores to find items like rice milk, coconut milk, almond butter, flax seed, and stevia. Most “health stores” such as GNC have only vitamins and supplements.

I struck gold at Just Green. Hip Hong Kong lists and describes a number of other good options for shopping organic.

Farmers’ markets can be found at Tai Po, Kadoorie Farms, and the Star Ferry Terminal. An AFC report states that, “as of October 2011, there were 401 organic farms in Hong.” It’s not as hard to find organic products as I thought it would be.

Delivery
One of the joys of living in Hong Kong is that most things can be delivered. Organic foods are no exception. A whole list of farms and companies will deliver bulk amounts of fresh, seasonal vegetables as well as other household items.

Two years ago, I received regular deliveries from The Organic Farm. I thought I would challenge myself to learn to cook whatever random vegetables I received. Deliveries were large – far too much for me to eat in a week (Road Warrior doesn’t eat vegetables unless setting an example for his kiddos). Work colleagues often make one order to share between two families.

For the Culinarily Challenged (a.k.a. people like me)
I learned to boil an egg only two months ago. I used Google for directions. For those of you who would rather read textbooks on statistics than decipher a cookbook (blanch? poach? really???) or chop vegetables, Fresh to Go has chefs that deliver a recipe along with pre-measured, pre-cut items. The concept is great, but I didn’t see many Western menu options.

If you don’t want to turn on any sort of stove or oven, Food by Web delivers from restaurants such as Just Salad, Fruit Stop Health Food Restaurant, Vegetable Shop, Dressed Salad, and Eat Right.

As of this posting, I’ve completed five of the 21 detox days. I’m not hungry. I’m not craving junk. I’m not even grumpy. I just miss conversations at the pub.

Hong Kong friends, have I missed any organic or health food places? Feel free to recommend more!

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Looking Ahead…

I was fortunate enough to spend the last week of 2011  in Koh Samui, Thailand with my husband, children, some dear friends and friends of dear friends.  What a great way to close out the year. As a part of the trip, two wonderful husbands (yes,one was mine!) booked us in for a girls day at the Tamarind Springs Spa for a day of relaxation in a natural setting…swims in natural pools, steams and scrubs in the caves…topped off by a two and a half hour thai yoga massage and facial.

Upon finishing the treatments (which were bar none the best I have ever experienced), my dear friend M and I started talking about detoxing and scheduling a retreat to do so (obviously at an amazing place like Tamarind Springs). We spoke about the bliss that could come from a week of quiet, introspection, unpluggedness, yoga, massage and…yep, possibly some good ole colonic therapy.

So, since we just blew off a week in Koh Samui, it looks like the week long retreat may be a ways off….however…a bit of the detox could start happening now while we are back home and feeling all of the New Year giddy about turning over a new leaf. Where to begin?

1. Back off on the booze. HK is a hotbed of opportunity to get your drink on. Seems like a good time to get back to the idea that a bottle of wine is not a single serve portion. Juice…lots of juice – unfermented of course.

2. Eat like a Thai. After seven blissful days at Villa Mia in Koh Samui with the luxury of an in house chef and under the moderation of having several veggies and pescatarians in our group, we are going full bore on fish, fruits, veggies and chiles (much to my husband’s chagrin). I figure that following rule #1 will definitely cause a cut back on kebabs and late night cake and cheese binges.

3. Get out of the air con and do something physically fun with the kiddos. Having a kayak at the gates to the beach was definitely a plus on vaca…but, I don’t have a kayak in my yard, so, we’ll make due with family hikes and saying “no” to indoor play places like the devil’s spawn called “Playtown”.

4. Eschew the taxi. Since we hate the bus, this will mean walking to where we want to go. Not tough to do in HK. I mean, as long as I don’t have to carry the kid’s school bags ALL the way back to the Peak. Oh, and we won’t bring a scooter which is just something else for me to carry after 10 minutes.

5. Start scheduling some activities with friends on the weekend that don’t include bellying up to the bar. Yes, this will mean that we will have to accept that dinner and drinks is not an activity, but, perhaps a trip to the Sai Kung Water Sports Centre or a rowdy game of paintball would make us all feel a bit younger. Or, we could hike to the place where we have dinner and drinks…that way we will have earned it!

6. Get right with some alternative treatments. Yes, colonic irrigation doesn’t exactly sound like fun, but, “hydrotherapy” has a ring to it?  Right?

7. Get happy about the wonderful life that we have. I mean, just the idea that we can consider loads of free time and the occasional hydrotherapy translates to a blessed existence.

So, that’s my starter list…until the retreat can happen. Who’s with me?

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Posted in Fitness, Food and Drink, Life in General, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment